Internet Edition. May 23, 2008, Updated: Bangladesh Time 12:00 AM 
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Beirut: A beautiful and tortured city stays alive

Cal Perry



THINGS are quiet now - but optimism is not something easily found on the streets of Beirut. I shudder to say that things are quiet, afraid the moment you say it - it changes in an instant. This city looks and feels like every generalisation that you hear about Beirut. Bullet holes from the civil war are now side by side with fresh scars from this week's most recent crisis.

Six days ago I was pinned down by intense gunfire that lasted more than an hour in the centre of the city with our cameraman. The Army had shouted at us to run to their location when the shooting started. They looked nervous from the sniper fire, but also looked seasoned - this is something they have seen before. Unfortunately, it's something everyone in this city has seen before.

The Army is deployed in force throughout the city. It's jarring to drive through the centre of the city and coming across armoured vehicles and soldiers - some catching a nap in the shade. I don't think anyone can understand how that feels unless you've been here and become used to such a military presence.

The Army has come back to western Beirut, as the gunmen of Hezbollah seemed to have simply slipped away as easily as they came - leaving in silence, after arriving with thunder. I've noticed in the Christian neighbourhood the Army is standing on nearly every corner. No one wants the Christian militias to get involved because everyone in Beirut can remember the bloody civil war - the Christian militias were heavily involved in the fighting then.

People should know how beautiful Beirut is - but more than that, how resilient this city is. When the gunfire was raging down town, people were sitting in cafés nearby - enjoying an afternoon drink. So too was the famous Jemmayzeh Street. I remember during the war with Israel this street was open even then. But this is different - it's worse in many ways. This is internal fighting, something that strikes a chord with everyone who lives here. For many, including our staff here it's easier to reconcile a war with a neighbour than war within the country. It's an overwhelming feeling that's swept this city.

People here are taking a deep breath; plotting with their families how to leave if the situation goes further downhill. Stocking up on food and water - preparing for the worst, just in case. The media here has broken out the flak jackets, helmets and security advisers. Word sweeps from time to time about a crew under fire - or a crew hurt. There have already been journalists shot covering this new crisis. I saw something I never thought I would see in my life - Iraqi civilians, fleeing the fighting here in Beirut, unable to even find safety outside of their broken nation.

Someone asked me who was the winner in the current situation. Certainly the Army - who did not splinter and cleared the gunmen from the streets without firing a shot - playing politics, something that's incredibly complicated here in Lebanon. But, the real winner is Lebanon and its people - who hope they've avoided yet again the dark and horrible road to another civil war.

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