The New Nation - Internet Edition

Farizaa Sabreen

Post-summer monthst Together with the sad feeling about the sunny days gone by and with the fading memories of that wonderful holiday on the sea come worries about the state of your skin.

Due to the post-summer sun-damage and skin dehydration you can notice one or several of the following symptoms:

l The skin feels and looks dry

l New or first fine lines appear and become considerably visible

l The skin tone looks dull and sallow

l Sun and age spots appear

l The skin is flaking and is irritated

l The skin is sagging

l Some broken capillaries become visible

These are signs of sun damaged skin and photo aging. What is sun damage?

Sun rays can damage the DNA, the genetic material, of the skin cells deep in dermis layer. As a result, these cells become dysfunctional. They do not produce collagen and elastin as well as they used to and skin sags, shows lines and wrinkles. The damaged cells do not renew properly and skin becomes thick, dull and sallow.

Trying to protect itself from the sun, the skin produces melanin pigment to absorb ultraviolet light. Melanin production normally causes skin to tan. However, sun damage over the years can result in localized spots of hyper pigmentation appearing on the most exposed parts of the body: usually face, shoulders and hands. Such lesions are known as "age spots" or "liver spots" Use the mid-season to restore your skin's moisture balance and treat the sun-damage. Step 1: Exfoliation.

Exfoliation or peeling will help your skin to get rid of the dead damaged cells and prepare it to take in moisture and nutrition easier. Exfoliation of the skin's top layer has also shown in many studies to stimulate production of new collagen in the deeper dermis layers thus helping to improve the signs of photo aging.

Professional Peeling: Some cosmetologists recommend waiting until November to take a series of professional peeling procedures. In November the sun becomes mild enough not to cause any damage to the freshly revealed skin layer. If you have sensitive or problem skin, or skin prone to acne, go with a chemical or enzyme peel. If your skin is dry or normal, you can choose dermabrasion, a chemical peeling or a combination of both.

At-Home Peeling Treatments: You can do lighter peeling treatments at home as well. It is important to choose the right exfoliating product for your skin condition and type. Non mechanical (enzyme-based) or containing round shaped granules products is perfect for problem, acne prone skin and sensitive skin. Enzyme-based exfoliating products work by dissolving the dead skin-layer, while mechanical scrubs with irregular particles "scrub" the dead cells off and can cause micro cuts in the skin. These micro injuries in problem and acne prone skin can result in breakouts and irritation. Such scrubs (with irregular particles) are good for dry, normal, flaking (but not irritated) skin.

* To help your skin renew on a daily basis you can also include a moisturizing product with light peeling properties. Look for a product containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Glucosamine, Retinol or Retinoids.

Step 2: Regular Daily moisturizing

During the hot, sunny summer months your skin looses a lot of moisture. Dehydration is one of the reasons why it looks so dull and you can see new lines. Give your skin the necessary moisture. Moisturize twice daily and apply a moisturizing mask once or twice a week. For normal, combination and oily skin use a light oil free moisturizer marked "non-comedogenic" in the form of fluid or gel. For the dry type of skin choose a thicker moisturizer. Look for a cream marked "for dry skin", that can be either oil-based or water-based.

Step 3: Daily Concentrated Treatment: Treat Photoaging

Cosmetologists recommend, starting from your late 20s-early 30s, to include into your daily routine an intensive skin treatment once or twice a year for 1-3 months. The length and intervals between the treatments depend on your age and skin condition.

Intensive skin treatments come in the form of serums or concentrated emulsions.

- Use Serums Containing Topical Vitamins and Antioxidants to treat and reverse Sun Damage:

Vitamin C:

To improve skin's condition and its tone, to reduce inflammation and to treat appearing as a result of sun damage lines, consider using during the post-summer months a cosmetic line with Vitamin C. Vitamin C is not only a powerful antioxidant, but also works to restore and heel your skin after the sun damage. Our skin to build collagen uses it. Vitamin C Ester is vitamin C with fatty acid attached to it. Due to this the skin better absorbs it than vitamin C alone.

Vitamin E:

This vitamin works together with Vitamin C to protect the epidermis from UV damage. Like Vitamin C it is a powerful antioxidant. On its own, Vitamin E has shown to reduce sunburn and help to heel wounds. Due to the fact that Vitamin E is fat soluble, it gets easily absorbed and stored by the skin.

Polyphenols or Flavonoids:

These are plant-derived substances with antioxidant properties that are powerful free-radical quenchers. The flavonoids often used in skin-care products include green tea, grape seed extract, and soy extract.

Retinoids (synthetic Vitamin A):

Retinoids are widely accepted as a very effective anti-aging treatment that helps to reverse sun-damage by speeding up cells turnover and stimulating collagen production. However, Retinoids can have some side effects and can cause increased irritation and sensitivity to the sun. In autumn the sun is milder than in summer, the air is not as dry as in winter and the temperatures are not extreme. That is why in some climates autumn would be a good time to try out a Retinoid treatment. In most countries the best quality Retinoids are available only on prescription. We recommend you consult your dermatologist and start your treatment under her/his supervision.

*If your skin is too sensitive and Retinoid products cause irritation try AHA products instead.

Note: Some moisturizers also come with Vitamins. For a better effect use both - apply serum under the moisturizer either twice daily or as a night repair treatment.

- Use Intensive Moisturizing Serum or Concentrate:

When skin is dehydrated its barrier against environment hazards and free radicals is very low. That makes the skin more susceptible to damage and to rapid development of signs of aging. To boost your skin's moisture and protection level you can choose a serum with long-proven hyaluronic acid. This acid acts as a magnet for moisture and locks it in to create the ideal environment for healthy and beautiful skin.

Lipids, including Linoleic Acid, ceramides, cholesterol, Avocado Lipids, help your skin to rebuild a weakened moisture barrier and protect skin from environmental irritants.

Step 4: At-Home Intensive Beauty Treatments: Masks

For a couple autumn months give yourself regular at-home beauty treatments. 2-3 times a week applies a mask for example, once or twice- moisturizing and once - antioxidant, anti-aging or energizing. Before applying a mask cleanse your face or use an exfoliator (Note: do not exfoliate more than 2 times a week) to prepare your skin for the treatment.

To increase the potency of the mask you can add one more step to your at-home facial and treat your face to a steam bath. Put some hot water in a bowl, cleanse your face and sit over the bowl. Cover yourself with a towel to keep the steam in. You can also add a green tea bag for additional antioxidant effect or a chamomile tea bag for soothing effect into the hot water. A steam bath will open up the pores and help to cleanse them of the accumulated sebum and dirt. It will also moisturize, soften the skin and stimulate blood circulation (that is why if you are prone to broken vessels in the face you should avoid it). Follow all the other steps of the facial: exfoliate and apply a mask.

Step 5: Treat sun spots

If you notice age spots appearing after summer, use exfoliating treatments and whitening products to solve this problem. Ingredients used in products targeting age spots include Kojic Acid and Hydroquinone.

Topical Vitamin C has also shown results in lightening dark spots.

To slow down brown melanin formation chooses a moisturizer with glucosamine. Recent studies have shown that topical application of glucosamine inhibits melanin overproduction in UV damaged skin cells and can help improve skin tone, barrier function and hyperpigmentation. You can also take a series of laser treatments to lighten up the spots.

Next summer make sure to use higher SPF protection!

Step 6: Improve your Diet

Beautiful skin comes not only from the bottoms of cream jars and tubes but also from a healthy diet rich in vitamins. In fact, whatever sophisticated topical treatments you apply, you won't get high quality results without providing your skin with the vitamins and minerals vital for its function and youth from within. Your diet should include fruits, vegetables and "good" fats like fish, olive oils, and flaxseed oil. Except from filling your diet with necessary vitamins it is highly recommended to take a quality vitamin and mineral supplement.

Make sure your diet includes:

Vitamin C: a powerful anti-oxidant, it also helps collagen formation.

Vitamin E: an antioxidant that protects cells from free radicals and helps to soothe and heal stressed skin.

Vitamin A: required for healthy normal skin cells function.

B-Vitamins, especially Vitamin B3 (Niacin): assist in the functioning of the skin, digestive system, and nerves.

Zinc: critically important for healthy skin function, helps heal blemishes, reduces inflammation, and helps to fight acne. Zinc is required for DNA repair, collagen and elastin production in the skin.

Omega-3 fatty acid: improves skin texture by "moisturizing" the skin from the inside.

Alpha lipoic acid: a special antioxidant as it is water and fat soluble which means that it is able to get to every cell in your body. This acid also helps to regenerate other oxidants like Vitamin e, Vitamin c, gluthathione and coenzyme Q10.

Magnesium: improves blood circulation.

Bioflavonoids: natural anti-oxidant free-radical scavengers.

Bioflavonoids work in synergy with other antioxidants like Vitamin E, ascorbate (Vitamin C), carotene (Vitamin A) and Selenium to reduce damage to the cells caused by oxidation. Flavonoids have also been found to help in maintaining the thin walls of the capillaries, promote circulation and have an antibacterial effect.

Autumn Skin Care

Several delicious recipes for 100% natural at-home skin treatments this autumn!

Nourishing Masks with Honey

* Honey has been used for centuries in skin treatments because of its humectant (which means it attracts and retains water), antioxidant, antimicrobial properties. Cleopatra relied on this ingredient to keep her skin young and beautiful, just remember her famous bath of milk and honey still favored in SPA treatments around the world.

Puree or grate a slice of melon pulp mix with a teaspoonful of honey, 1 teaspoonful of cream or sour cream. Apply the mask to your face and leave for 15-20 minutes wash off with warm water. (Normal Skin)

Blend 1-tablespoon honey with 1 egg yoke and 1 teaspoon olive oil. Apply over your face with your fingers avoiding your eyes. Leave it on your face for 15 minutes, then rinse it off. (Normal, Dry Skin)

Toning Mask

Grate an apple and apply to your skin for 15-20 minutes. Wash off with slightly cool water. (Suitable for all skin types)

Nourishing Mask

Mix egg yoke with 1 teaspoonful of sour cream, teaspoonful of oil, and teaspoonful of freshly squeezed grape juice. As a thickening ingredient add a little bit of bread and mix well. Apply for 15-20 minutes and wash off. For the best results take a series of treatments for 5 weeks 2 masks per week.

Soothing Mask

If your skin is irritated and sensitive you will benefit from a spinach mask. For this boil some finely chopped spinach leaves, cool a bit down till comfortably warm and spread over a thin clothe. Apply the mask to the face for 15-20 minutes.

Nourishing anti-wrinkle masks

To fight wrinkles and improve condition of the dry skin use potatoes.

There are 2 variants of the mask:

Variant 1: Boil a potato, let it cool down, puree it and mix with a bit of milk. Apply to your face for 15 minutes.

Variant 2: Grate a fresh potato and immediately apply to your face. Wait 15 minutes and wash off.

Another vegetable used for skin rejuvenation is cabbage. Cabbage juice as well as grated cabbage masks is used to treat wrinkles and dry, crappie looking skin. Cabbage also has lightening effect on the age-spots. Apply for 15 minutes.

Anti-age-spots mask

To fade age-spots you can use lemon, parsley, cabbage, eggplant or cucumber.

Cucumber mask will not only lighten the spots but also make your skin smooth and tighten up the pores. Grate cucumber and spread it on a piece of cloth. Leave on the face for 15-20 minutes. (Combination, Oily Skin)

Eggplant is another vegetable that helps to lighten age-spots. You can use either eggplant juice or mashed eggplant pulp. In case you use juice soak a paper towel in it and apply on your face for at least 20 minutes. Mashed pulp can be applied directly on your face. Rinse of with slightly warm water. Repeat the treatment daily till you see some results. (All Skin Types)